“I’m not sure which of the cliché images of lush jungles, empty beaches or smiling locals most drew me to Ghana last summer, in any case it succeeded on all counts and many more. It certainly has all the ingredients for an amazing trip: endless stunning corners of natural beauty and an incredibly hospitable people that will not let you leave until they have indelibly stamped their rich culture onto you, added to all this is an almost eerie lack of overseas visitors away from the big towns.
The area we visited in Southern Ghana last summer has sadly seen a major decline in its rural economy over the last two decades, the disused cocoa store, the drunks in the street and the distant buzzing of chainsaws in the forest all tell different sides of the same story. The collapse of a potentially profitable cocoa industry in the 80s has arguably resulted in this area becoming poorer and more isolated than at any other time since independence.
When in Shia, we all had the option of engaging in a number of projects such as teaching in the village schools, building the new school and conservation work in the surrounding forest. On top of these planned projects we could help out with the cooking for the group, help the people in the village who were housing us on their farm to collect dinner, or focus on any other specific task that was of interest.
The trip to Ghana last summer was a real eye opener, it convinced me to make a total u-turn and focus my dissertation on something related to the worrying situation in the developing world. Not an easy feat for someone who was planning to study mountain glaciers! I am now planning to go back to Shia to study the effects of the local agricultural co-operative on the income and social welfare of the local community. The initiative has been set up by one of the villagers, the idea is to generate income within the community from high-value tree crops such as mangoes and cashews that grow well within the local forest cover.
I’m going to spend my days planting trees, drinking cheap cold beer, and getting very sweaty in the jungle, this coupled with the mind expanding properties of Lariam will no doubt lead to another summer of African madness! I just have to thank the university for my generous bursary!”
Sam Keam in Ghana, 2002

"No less than the chief executive for the Hohoe distict himself swept into the village last Tuesday to perform the all important 'sod cutting' (breaking the earth's crust) ceremony. With a babble of speeches and 'wessoes' (welcomes), and an extremely patient audience of school children, chickens, and market sellers waiting to return to their overcrowded pitch, the crust was eventually cut and with it the digging began in earnest.
As beautiful and serene a spot as this part of West Africa is, it suffers an annual battering from the rain waters that pour off the mountains that surround it. Liati Wote's (named after the people who settled here 3 generations ago by climbing trees, walking backwards to deceive their tyrant, and finding fertile land) inhabitants suffer particularly as they are at the foot of some of the largest mountains in the area.
Each year the erosion caused by the flood waters destroys many of the small homes on the East side of the village. The much needed flood drain is at last being dug- thanks to the fundraising efforts of the mad team and the community spirit that abounds here.
The hope of a dryer, and less destructive environment is becoming closer to reality. The mad team's efforts to help dig in the heat has been fantastic, young white girls wielding spades and pick-axes are challenging the preconceptions of the local 'man work in field- woman work at home' mentality. Grease to the elbows- we dig on..."
Ben Keene, Madcrew Ghana 2003

"Half of the group decided to walk up Mount Afadjato. I reached the base and decided to turn back after persuading the group that I could find my way home (as there were only 3-5 minutes walk to the village, and besides there were only two other paths, both of which I had previously walked).
When I reached the turning however, I realized that I didn't recognize a thing, as when I walked I had only looked to the ground to avoid roots and insects. But luckily after choosing a path (the correct path) I recognized a dead worm which I'd noticed earlier, and so I found my way back to the village (though I still didn't recognize the village and asked three villagers where Liati Wote was? To which I had some confused looks).
So a dead worm saved me from certain death, or more likely a two hour wait for the group to return. I think I might go back and get him, or, on second thoughts, maybe not."
Jamie Murphy, Mad, Ghana 2003
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